Category Archives: Equipment

3D Print Pegboard Tool Holders

It’s helpful to have a well-organized workspace.  Knowing where to find a part or a tool saves time and frustration (not to mention saving money by not purchasing a tool only to realize you already had one).  And having a clear area to work helps me to focus on the task at hand and improves the quality of the result.  I’ve been working to create a better workshop space since we moved a few years ago.  It’s coming along nicely with a workbench, pegboard, lots of storage, and an increasing number of tools and parts.

Getting the workbench organized

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That said, I still need to find a home for a few things – small screws and fasteners, a few hand tools, and especially microcontrollers and associated small electronics parts.  There was extra space pegboard and I decided I wanted to hang some frequently used hand tools – files, small screwdrivers, etc – for quick access.  What a perfect project for TinkurLab’s new 3D printer!

I started by trying some existing 3D models from Thingiverse, however, these didn’t fit into my pegboard which is  3/16″ holes spaced every 1″.  So I decided to do what any maker would – design my own 😉

A co-worker who also has a 3D printer recently told me about using Tinkercad for creating and editing 3D models.  Tinkercad is an entirely web-based CAD editor which works on the premise of using simple shapes – boxes, spheres, etc – combined to make 3D models.  A shape in Tinkercad can either be sold (additive) or a hole (subtractive).  Combined with a few simple tools for aligning, joining, and measuring, Tinkercad seems like an easy to use tool for most basic 3D modeling needs.

Knowing I’d likely need to iterate on the design a few times (aka trial and error), I decided to start by 3D printing the pegboard hooks on a small connective box.  This allowed me to test the riskiest assumption quickly – the design, size, and spacing of the pegboard hooks.  By only printing the hooks, I was able to print the part much more quickly without wasting 3D filament or time.  After testing, the hook size and spacing was correct but the hooks needed a bit more vertical material to ensure they’d stay attached to the pegboard.

After adjusting the model, I printed a full 3D model of my small tool holder which was intended to hold small screwdrivers and drill bits.  The full 3D print was a success with clean and sharp edges.  However, when trying to hang it on the pegboard, I realized the hooks were too low on the back of the part.  So as to not waste more time and material, I used a saw to remove a bit of the extra material and adjusted the 3D model for future prints.

I hope to make a few more pegboard holders over time as the need presents itself.  With the pegboard hook design validated, I can now quickly iterate on existing designs to meet additional needs.

You can find all my 3D models on Thingiverse, including the pegboard holders:

Small Tool Pegboard Holder


Large Tool Pegboard Holder


Box Pegboard Holder



TinkurLab Goes 3D!

TinkurLab finally has it’s first 3D printer – a Anycubic Kossel Linear Plus.  It’s a $300 kit build-it-yourself  printer.  Learning to use a 3D printer is a journey.  It takes trial and error to learn about a printer and find the settings that work best for different types of 3D prints.  We’ll be keeping notes and 3D models on GitHub at  Follow along!

3D Printing #LearningByDoing

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What’s the best tool in our hackerspace workshop? A Dremel. Hands down.

Tales of Tools and a Panning Timelapse GoPro Timer.

So what is the best tool in TinkurLab’s workshop?  A Dremel!  Hands down!  Well, 1 minute quick drying epoxy is a close second, but let’s save that for another day.

It can cut.  I can grind.  It can drill.  It can route.  It can sand.  It can polish.  It’s pretty small.  You can get new bits cheap.

So how did we get to this epiphany?  I recently completed a small project to update my timelapse panning timer – affectionately named TinkurLapse.  TinkurLapse rotates my GoPro camera as it takes a photo every few seconds, creating a panning timelapse video.  My original timer was basically a $2 Ikea kitchen timer with a ¼”x20 screw glued to it to screw into the GoPro’s tripod mount.  BTW a standard camera tripod mount takes a – you guessed it – ¼”x20 screw.  Remember that for your next trivia night.  Anyway, in the spirit of most Tinkurlab projects, the goal was to get a minimally viable product out the door quickly to start really learning about it and to make improvements.  “Learning by doing” in other words.

TinkurLapse Panning Time-Lapse Camera Timer

And learn I did.  While the first version of TinkurLapse worked, it had a few issues.  First and foremost, having a tiny base, relatively high height, and very light weight resulted in an unbalanced base for the GoPro which easily fell over.  Many early experiments resulted in setting the camera up for a 60 minute timelapse only to return after an hour to find the camera lying sideways rotating the timer under its base.  Pretty uneventful video! The other issue was its size.  While it wasn’t huge, it wasn’t small either.  Given that most of my GoPro shooting occurs during travels and adventures like hiking, skiing, etc, it would be ideal to make the panning timer as small as possible.  While the first version of the panning timer worked, I didn’t use it very much.  It just wasn’t good enough for me.  I value it provided didn’t overcome the cost of using it.  My goal of creating awesome panning timelapse videos was blocked.

So one day while aimlessly wandering the Internet, I decided to search for a prebuilt device.  I know – it was a moment of weakness.  How un-DIY of me.  There are not very many panning timelapse devices on the market (at least not under less than a few $100s for professional use), but while browsing through the catalog of Photojojo, I came across the Camalapse.  However, aside from the $30 price tag, it has the same problem as the first version of TinkurLapse – not stable enough.  Camalapse is only 2 ounces, with a small base.  A featherweight.  However, it does support mounting to a tripod to provide a more stable base, so it has potential.

After knocking some sense into myself, I set out to research ways to improve the initial design.  I found a great video from a serious panning timelapser, who posted a great tutorial.  The tutorial suggested using the same Ikea kitchen timer I used in the first version of TinkurLapse – no problem, I bought 3x just for this reason.  The tutorial also had some other great ideas – remove the done bell as to not scare all people and wildlife in 1 mile radius, and mounting the timer to a Gorillapod tripod to provide a more stable base.  Perfect!

Enter the Dremel.  After some drilling, grinding, and gluing I had completed version two of TinkurLapse.  On to testing.  The initial test run resulted in rotation of about 90 degrees before stopping.  After some investigation, I determined that excess glue and some of the timer’s parts were obstructing the rotation of the GoPro mount.  What to do?  Dremel it!  After some precise grinding and sanding, I had trimmed down the responsible obstructions.  The next test passed without issue, even removing the annoying done bell at the end.

TinkurLapse v2 is ready for some more real world testing!  I’m looking forward to a few upcoming skiing trips to use the new TinkurLapse.  I’ll post some videos.  Until then, happy tinkering!

Example Timelapse Video 1

Example Timelapse Video 2



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Having the right tool for the job sure makes it easier.  So I’m happy to say we finally got our CNC machine working and made our first cut – a TINKURLAB sign cut out of 1/4″ plywood.  More details to come, but this should certainly help with fabrication for projects.

CNC First Cut